John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, a unique geological and paleontological preserve in eastern Oregon, is a treasure trove of scientific and scenic wonders. The monument comprises three distinct units—Clarno, Painted Hills, and Sheep Rock—that together span 40 million years of Cenozoic Era history. This sprawling, remote area is not a single location, but rather a collection of sites spread across a scenic landscape. Visitors must travel between the units, with each offering its own unique beauty and a different window into the region's ancient past.

The Painted Hills unit is arguably the most famous and visually stunning part of the monument. Located near the town of Mitchell, the hills get their name from the vibrant layers of reds, golds, blacks, and yellows that paint the landscape. These colors are the result of millions of years of ancient volcanic ash and fossilized soil layers. The colors shift dramatically with the changing light of the day, making it a favorite spot for photographers, especially at sunrise and sunset. Several short, interpretive trails, such as the Painted Cove Trail and the Carroll Rim Trail, allow visitors to get up close to these colorful mounds and learn about the climate changes that formed them.

The Sheep Rock unit is the heart of the monument's paleontological and historical story. It's home to the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, a must-see for anyone interested in the area's fossils. The center features exhibits on the evolution of plants and animals, showcasing fossils found in the region. The unit also includes the historic Cant Ranch, a preserved homestead that provides a glimpse into the lives of early settlers in the John Day Valley. For those who want to experience the landscape, the dramatic Blue Basin offers scenic hiking trails like the Island in Time Trail and the Blue Basin Overlook Trail, which wind through blue-green claystone formations and reveal fossil replicas.

The Clarno unit, the westernmost and oldest of the three, is distinguished by its towering volcanic rock formations known as the Palisades. These jagged cliffs are the remnants of ancient volcanic mudflows, or lahars, that occurred over 40 million years ago. This unit is especially notable for its fossilized plant life. On the Trail of Fossils, visitors can see actual fossils of a subtropical rainforest, including petrified leaves and seeds, embedded directly in the rock. The rugged terrain here tells a different geological story from the other units, focusing on the early Eocene period when the area was a lush, tropical landscape.

Visiting the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is a comprehensive experience that goes beyond mere sightseeing. It provides a distinct chapter in Earth's history. The remoteness of the monument also means that visitors get a peaceful, uncrowded experience, perfect for reflection and appreciating the natural world. From the vibrant colors of the Painted Hills to the ancient plant fossils at Clarno and the historical and scientific context at Sheep Rock, the monument offers a rich and educational adventure for all who make the journey.

Fun Facts

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument holds one of the most continuous and well-preserved fossil records of Cenozoic-era mammals, plants, and ecosystems in the world, from lush rainforests to dry grasslands, spanning over 40 million years.

Attraction Advice

All three units (Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno) of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument are open year-round. There is no admission fee. The Visitor Center is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM from Presidents’ Day to Veterans Day. From Veterans Day to Presidents Day, the visitor center is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. The center is closed on Sundays and Mondays, as well as on federal holidays.